Billhook advice requested

[Zenith]

As a new small woodland owner and a complete novice where tools are concerned, I'd like a bit of advice about billhooks, please. I looked at the sort of initial tools that would be useful in my wood and decided to purchase my first billhook as a start. I got a Spear and Jackson Southern Counties Billhook.



My question relates to the sharpness of the blade. It seems very blunt (see picture above), yet when I contacted the suppliers they told me 'this is the normal sharpness of the blade and should only need resharpening if necessary after use.' It doesn't look as if it could cut through anything and would just be battering branches into submission.

So, is it normal for them to be like this and just what should I be using such a billhook for. I'm sorry if this is such a basic question, but I'm on a steep learning curve.

Many thanks for any advice given.

[Bearwood]

Billhooks are traditionally used in the laying of hedges or for coppicing, although most folks who own them nowadays use them for chopping kindling or hacking brush.

They are curious to work with and maintain as the steel within the older ones are generally medium carbon filleted between two pieces of wrought iron or mild. The reasoning for this is to facilitate field sharpening with a cigar stone or the like, which would be made more difficult with high carbon steel, although the edge would hold longer. Modern 'hooks such as yours are almost certainly high carbon only and would respond well to a succession of gradually finer stones to reach the best edge, and under no circumstances would I ever use an edged tool with a factory provided edge.

If you're unsure of how to sharpen it, or don't want to invest in a bunch of cigar stones, but yourself a cheap round file and a selection of wet and dry papers and work from coarse to fine in succession following the profile and contour of the existing edge.

The difference should be instantly noticeable.

[Zenith]

Many thanks for your advice. I bought a cigar stone when I purchased the billhook, but I'll make sure I've got some wet and dry papers to use the technique you mention.

[Bearwood]

If you need any practical advice, I'm only near Derby. You can always call-in on the way by.

[Dexter's Shed]

we bought a couple too to use, yes they didn't feel sharp to the touch, but they still cut, we then discovered CHAINSAWS
so we mainly use the billhooks for splitting cut Hazel or small logs, make yourself up a hammer from a small log, this is then used on the back of the billhook to drive it through the timber (following the grain)

[Zenith]

Bearwood, I have sent you a PM.

Dexter's Shed, many thanks. I'm starting to get more of an idea of how to use it now.

[splodger]

i use a number of billhooks - certain types are better than others for particular jobs
mine are all old ones though - wouldn't fancy one of the modern types myself.

my main billhook (lovely weight, feel, blade etc) is kept sharp with sandpaper - as for uses, i tend to use mostly for small rod harvesting and for cleaning up the side growth etc also for rod splitting and hedgelaying etc

[Andy M]

I love billhooks and so does this man http://billhooks.co.uk/

I had a similar problem with a S&J billhook several years ago - the bevel was ground at an inadequate angle. I rang the company and the rep said there had been a poorly ground batch gone out due to a manufacturing/quality control problem. He sent me a new properly ground hook, which was much better after a further bit of fettling. Yours seems to have the wrong bevel angle -- it needs 30deg or less and yours looks to be 35deg plus. Grind it down and sharpen and you will not be disappointed. Try a Yorkshire pattern - well balanced and can be used with one hand for finer work and two-handed for felling bigger bits.

[SimonFisher]

Our first billhook was a modern one - one of these http://www.toolandfix.com/bulldog-1844-bill-hook-newtown.html. It's horribly heavy and doesn't feel at all balanced when compared to the old Elwell ones (models 3901-8 and 3901-9) that we've since picked up at fairs or via eBay.

I'd certainly suggest browsing the stalls of the secondhand tool sellers if you're not sure what you're after, online sellers perhaps if you've a better idea of what you want.

[oldclaypaws]

I recommend a Fiskars Brush Axe with blade by Gerber, it'll go through 3" Hazel with a couple of wacks. Holds a very good edge, cruelly sharp. Very lightweight but effective.

Usually sharpen it with the same round file as the chainsaw.

I believe many manufacturers send tools out only partly sharpened and expect the user to have a grindstone to put the edge on before use, to minimise accidents in distribution.