Growing trees from seed

[Domeyhead]

I want to try and grow various species of conifer from seed. I have acquired some varieties off t'internet from a reliable supplier along with advice on stratification before planting.
Has anyone got any experience of doing this? If so, what germination rates did you achieve?
Does anyone have any advice on stratification techniques eg use of fridge or freezer? I have experiemented with a few seeds in both, to see if the colder environment inreases germination percentages.
Finally, If I am successful I was intending to transplant germinated saplings into peat pots to allow their roots to develop before transplanting to my wood when they get 12-18" high. Any advice on the right times to transplant will also be much appreciated.
Some of the species I am experimenting with are
Sitka spruce
Corsican Pine
Scots Pine
Norway Spruce
Noble Fir
Lodgepole Pine
Douglas fir
Western Hemlock

Many thanks for any advice/ experience!

[Sparrowhatchforestry]

From what I remember from our cultivation lessons at college most conifer species do alot better if you use an under-heating system. As for stratification there are many differences between species so you would have to research each one.

[The Barrowers]

Lets get really paranoid "seeds" where from?, with what certification?, native or non native?, Is it all going to rack and ruin? Everything has a preditor but I agree lets stick to something less coniferous, more everything friendly, mind you conifers do give nice hedgehog mushrooms! B and T

[Domeyhead]

Some helpful advice but the snobbery against conifers is a little puerile. TImber production is no different to coppicing or charcoal production - it is a crop, and considering this country imports 90% of its timber and considering the economic state of the country's balance of trade and considering that unless you actually live in your woods it is certain that you are going home to a house constructed using (imported) softwoods such comments are misplaced.
You will have noticed a wide variety of conifers in my list including the Scots pine which is actually a wonderful tree for wildlife and flora because of the light it allows through the forest floor. You may never see a crossbill or a hen Harrier in your woods but I do in mine, so thanks to those with an objective and non judgemental outlook.

[Alex]

Sorry I can't offer you any advice.

I do hope somebody can offer you some help, as I'd like to know a little more about planting conifers from seed also.

[Domeyhead]

Hello Claypaws, I intend to create a deciduous fringe around my conifers using native species, both to improve the visual and natural aspect of the woods. However the land is 1000 ft up and exposed, the soil is acid and many hardwood species do not do so well.
I intend to use a variety of nursery grown saplings (oak, birch, alder, holly, hawthorn, Norway maple, and field maple) for these fringes so the seed stratification advice is not required for the non conifers.

[Stephen1]

Hi Domeyhead

I don't think there's any institutional bias against conifers here! - to be fair to Old Clay Paws in the very short time since he bought his wood and joined this forum we have rarely spoken about conifers.

Looking at your list I would suggest not wasting any time on Corsican or Lodgepole pine - the risk of red band needle blight is just too high for these species now. My question to you would be why grow them from seed, when they are available so cheaply as bare root transplants?

At 1000 ft up exposed and on acidic soil I'd probably give douglas fir a miss also - just not windfirm enough and the foliage will strugle too. Western hemlock is so invasive that it is almost always a problem wherever its planted.

As for sitka spruce, norway spruce, scots pine and nobe fir these should suit your purpose very well. If the scots pine seed is sown freshly harvested then a good proportion will germinate without a significant dormancy to overcome (musn't have spent more than 4 weeks below 8degreesC though or a high proportion will have become dormant). With sitka spruce it depends on the provenence of the parent plants - those from Alaksa/Yukon require a far longer cold period than those from the south of British Columbia (and of course any from further souther than B.C.). Norway spruce - 3-4 months in the refrigerator (not freezer) kept in moist vermiculite and with a little fungicide will yield good results. As for noble fir I'm afraid I don't know much about its germination.

[Stephen1]

Oh meant to add don't use peat pots!! You can end up with circled roots- Use rootrainers - can be bought very cheaply secondhand try ebay etc. When planting in upland exposed sites root architecture is a huge factor for (other than sitka spruce which is very plastic - in the sense of readapting to conditions) most of the conifers you mention the initial root pattern is very important to future stability - you wouldn't think it but it is! No apparent problems for may be 20-30 years but once the trees are big enought to catch the wind root architecture is very important!

[Domeyhead]

Hi many thanks for the replies. Growing from seed is by way of an economic experiment, to help me understand the germination success rates, and (with luck) to give me ready access to a supply of saplings at short notice.
Like many small woodland owners I can only take a limited number of trees to plant at any given time, so although I may need a few thousand I am always paying the upper price bands by acquiring trees in small numbers, so the potential attraction of growing successfully from seed is quite high.
Rowan is a good idea. I'll add that to my mix.