Edges

[tracy]

Rich has been told that we should not coppice to the edges of woodlands, as that leaves the wood open to new and invasive species...

I thought we should to let the light in......

Any thoughts or experience to share? We have some large edge trees, many which were once hedge that need care before they die and fall over!

[Darren]

I would of thought that would only apply if you have invasive next door. If you don't fell maybe the trees will be wind thrown.

[Exeldama]

My understanding is that the edges should where possible be graded in height structure to be of most benefit for wildlife.

I have recently removed the only Rhododendron i can find on my wood, and it has been a real nightmare... it took a mini digger and hours of axes etc...you wouldnt believe the extent of the roots. My neighbour is doing silch at the moment to control theirs...but they dont seem able to jump into an alreday occupied space.

that siad my one is now throwing up hundreds of shoots where ever a tiny piece or root remaind.

I will hammer it til i weaken it to death...i will not be defeated.!!

[tracy]

Thanks chaps

[Binz]

I thought that it was beneficial to coppice, or at least open up a space/corridor, from the edge to connect with a glade or ride as butterflies are lazy and wont fly over trees, they just fly along the edge of the wood until they find a gap. Happy to hear from someone more knowledgable as to whether that's right or just my misled logic.

B

[MartinD]

I have had a few quotes for work from forestry contractors. The consensus opinion seemed to be that on the edges facing the prevailing winds, I should leave a minimum number of large trees in place to provide protection, as removing these could bring down trees within the woodland. (Annoying, as most of these big trees are sycamore, which I need to remove in the long term) On east and north edges, I could 'layer' the edges to create more light. Different reasoning, but similar outcome.

I am halfway through my project to remove rhodo - 1 acre out of 2. I seem to be lucky, as I have a thin layer of black sandy soil on top of limey clay. (With about 6 inches of leaf mould / litter on top of the soil). Over the weekend I removed a single plant which covered an area over half a tennis court. (It was about 4m tall, but in the centre was an open area the size of a small house where you could walk around). However, all but the really big stems could be levered out, together with rootball. I cut the big stems to the ground, belt them about with an axe, and paint them with weedkiller.They seem to root in the top layer, and the trailers / suckers seem to root in the leaf litter. Areas I cleared in the spring are still free of regrowth, except for bits at the edges where I missed smaller suckers.

[Darren]

I'm sure i heard you can paint lime on to the leaves of regrowth rhodos. most likely need to be done with it's dry.

[Stephen1]

Ultimately if you have a substantial area of rhododendron that you are trying to get rid of you will need to use herbicide - it's the lesser of two evils. Glyphosate is relatively environmentally safe.

I cut the rhododendron down leaving a foot or so of stem, then I drill diagonally downwards into the side of the stem about 10cm deep (not the top!) with a 10-14mm drill bit in a battery operated drill. I then inject glyphosate based herbicide into the hole with a sheep dosing gun.

http://www.molevalleyfarmers.com/pd5_ANIM-MED_NEED[a]SYR_SYRINGES_05939_GUN-DRENCH-AUTOMATIC-20ML.htm

If you're not familiar with these a tube comes out of the back of the gun and conects to the bottom of a bottle you wear on your back. You can set the volume dispensed, then a single pull of the trigger will 3/4s fill the hole - no spillage, no measuring each time and very quick, easy single hand operation.

Once the rhododendron is cut, and the brash dealt with I just wander about with the drill in one hand and the dosing gun in the other - very easy.

(best done in summer)

[Stephen1]

I'd meant to say the advantage of this method is that you get all the herbicide into the system of the rhododendron without getting it on anything else. Painting it onto Rhododendron leaves is tricky 'cos they have a very waxey surface - it just runs everywhere - spraying obviously gets everywhere too including mist and vapour on you, however careful you are and whatever protective kit you wear