saw horse design

[greyman]

Funny how a good idea seems to pop up in different places - I used a similar set up to saw up the last fill of the kiln - small diameter Hazel on a normal saw horse just aint practical! I put mine up on bearers too ans also experienced the flying log syndrome - using a similar method of putting heavier stuff on the top. Hadn't done the strappy number but did wonder about 'improvements' I could make.

'need is the mother of all invention'

Greyman

[Rich]

Also found a further refinement here http://www.bushpark.co.uk/logmate.htm

I spoke to the guy making them and he confirms that it works much better with thicker uniform cordwood than with smaller irregular shaped wood for the reasons we have already discussed.

Having discovered that I have been moving all my firewood way too much, I'm just wondering about the ergonomics of cutting firewood as you coppice. Would it be better to cut and split your cord wood then stack it in between chestnut stakes pole pounded into the ground as Mike is doing, (I guess you'd need to construct quite a few of these around the coppice so you don't have to haul the cord wood too far)

Or using one portable Wood Troll/logmate type device to move around the wood with. Still have to stack and split your cord wood, less pole pounding, but means double stacking ie. taking it from your cord wood stack to your 'Wood troll/logmate type' device stack!

Rich

[Fez]

Hi,

It was I that spoke to Rich a few hours ago and developed the Logmate.

Those of you have have done a green woodworking course at Mike Abbots, will have seen his metal saw horse. I think it was called a Buckinghamshire Workstation and because it is inherently unstable, has to be stapled to the ground to prevent it falling over. I can't find any reference under this name so may have got it wrong or it's just no longer made. It was a year or so ago I asked Mike about it and I think it once cost about £170.

I mentioned to Rich that I now carry the folding Logmate around in the link box on the back of my quad bike. I will soon by selling a kit to make that as well as the larger Logmate. It should be less than £10 for the plans and all the metal work.

[tracy]

Hi Fez, great to see you and we look forward to hearing more about your logmate kit that you are making.

[wood troll]

Hi All,

I've got time to write up a better description of how to make the 'wood troll logmate' whilst I wait for 7.5 litres of figs to come to bottling temperature... the joys of southern climes (munch munch yum yum).

Parts list:

2 Oak (or other strong wood) bearers 4"x3"x35"

1 oak cross tie 2.5"x1.5"x42"

4 Hazel poles 2.5"diameter x42"

4 Hazel legs 2.5"diameter x15"

2 Oak pegs (with top knob) 1"diameter x 5"

Building Description

(All hole measurements are between centres)

1. Cut a 3.5" deep blind mortise 2.5"x1.5" in the 3" side of the right oak bearer.

2. Cut a through mortise 2.5"x1.5" in the 3" side of the left oak bearer.

3. Place the oak cross tie through the left mortise and into the right blind mortise. Once the cross tie is snugly seated in the blind mortise, drill (or auger) a 1" hole down completely through both pieces of wood. The hole should be 2” from the open end of the mortise.

4. Position the cross tie in the left bearer, at the distance you find is most convenient for the length of logs to be cut, then drill a hole down through both pieces of wood at the centre point of the mortise (21" from the centre of the first hole is a good start). More holes can be added in the cross tie later at oft used positions.

5. The leg holes can now be drilled underneath at a slight angle to give a better spread and more stability. They should be 3” in from the ends of the bearers about 2” deep.

6. Drill 2" holes completely through for the hazel uprights on the top side of each bearer. These depend on the length of chainsaw blade to be used; the width of the stack must be less than the length of the blade. (Also a less powerful chainsaw will have difficulty cutting though a thick stack, allow for this when deciding how thick!) The front hole needs to be 5" back from the peg holes to allow the chainsaw to cut the stack cleanly and not the cross tie. The rear holes you must decide upon yourself, but they must not interfere with the legs.

7. Draw knife the leg and pole ends to fit into their holes.

8. Put it all together with the pegs.

The figs have now been bottled and the spare ones eaten, tomorrow its the tomatoes...again!!!

wood troll

[DaveTaz]

I've used a variety of designs for sawing round wood and agree with a lot of what has been said already. Using a chainsaw to cut through bundles of timber can be tricky re grabbing & throwing loose wood, but also when bundles are put under pressure from straps etc. This introduces tension and compression that isn't always that obvious and can lead to chain being pinched etc. What ever your preferred option be safe with the Chainsaw and wear your PPE.

Cutting roundwood can be quick using a simple saw-horse if you have some body to feed it - no need to spend time siting a cradle and loading it up, at the end of the day you still end up with a pile of logs that probably needs to be moved somewhere and then restacked before being moved again!!!