Small Woodland Owners' Group

Best tool for felling pines

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Postby jennysmate » Tue May 03, 2011 2:42 pm

I want to cut down 4 or 5 pine trees in my wood. They are around 3ft. diam. Whats the best tool for the job? I think a chain saw would be too expensive, what with safety equipment, training, etc. So that leaves axes or saws, any recommendations?


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Postby DaveTaz » Tue May 03, 2011 3:33 pm

3ft diameter sounds like large trees if they are pine. I wouldn't recommend you fell them unless you are experienced in doing so. If you are experienced then the only safe and effective way of doing it is with a largish chainsaw with a minimum bar of 18". The best alternative would be to pay a forester/tree surgeon to fell them for you, or maybe one of the members on here could do it if you can find some one close enough


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Postby tracy » Tue May 03, 2011 5:40 pm

I know it is dull, but I agree with DaveTaz. Sadly it is rarely a saw that kills or seriously injures someone - it is the tree... I would also recommend getting someone in to do them for you.

Whereabouts are you? Maybe a swog member could help?


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Postby jennysmate » Wed May 04, 2011 6:38 am

Thanks for replies. Did I say 3ft Diam. I meant 3ft circumference, or about 1ft. diam, slightly smaller, sorry. they are about 30ft tall though. Is this do-able by an enthusiastic amateur? The wood is near gravesend in kent


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Postby RichardKing » Wed May 04, 2011 6:44 pm

This size of tree is certainly "do-able by an amateur", but unless you are felling them yourself then I suggest that you should ensure that they have the relavent qualifications & insurance.


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Postby Exeldama » Fri May 06, 2011 8:30 pm

The biggest i have done on my own was about 150 ft tall and im guessing 3+ feet diameter. It did get a little hung up (bit cramped ) but a bit of common sense and some patience and it came down ok..just take your time think it through and keep safe.


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Postby jennysmate » Sat May 07, 2011 7:46 am

Thanks, so axe or saw? Ive got a bog standard bow saw, will that do? or maybe an axe what size would you suggest?


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Postby tracy » Sat May 07, 2011 4:23 pm

Hi Jennysmate


There are loads of good day courses out there on felling with handtools, I am sure a quick google will find something near you. These trees are big and heavy so it would be worth some time finding out about felling, these things can go badly wrong!


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Postby Dennis » Sat May 07, 2011 6:37 pm

When I tried felling an alder much smaller than the trees you have described armed with a bow saw + not much knowledge I got into a bit of a pickle. Do take Tracy's advice an go on a course before you try to cut anything.


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Postby Twybill » Sat May 07, 2011 7:08 pm

Hi Jennysmate,


Obviously you would have to satisfy yourself that you could safely fell these trees and you have the energy to finish the task. But having done that there is no reason why you shouldn't use hand tools and believe me, using one's own perspiration is highly satisfying.


I would suggest using a 30" bow saw with the peg and raker (type 23 Bahco/Sandvik blade). Buy a new blade, don't bother with a used one, and Bahco are the best. Some other makes are rubbish and have too much set on the teeth. Make sure the blade is tensioned in the frame. Bahco make the best frames which can be highly tensioned with an attached turnscrew.


No need for a chainsaw as speed is not of the essence and listening to the tree can be done without all that motorised racket. Another advantage for the bowsaw with these smaller diameter trees is a wedge can be hammered in behind the blade to prevent the tree settling back and jamming the sawblade. A chainsaw bar is much larger and there wouldn't be the space for a wedge.


To make things easier, consider cutting the tree at a comfortable standing height where you can use your body weight without having to kneel on the ground. Also there is less diameter of wood to cut than at ground level.


The sloping cut of the sink can be done with an axe or bowsaw. I find it easier with an axe if the bevel is ground on one side only (like a side axe), to prevent it bouncing out of the cut. Otherwise the bowsaw is probably easier to control. I find it better to make the horizontal cut first, then the sloping one. Make sure the cut will line up with the horizontal and it is often better to alternate cutting from one side then the other to avoid the blade wandering.


The sink is the hardest bit physically. Slow and steady strokes for the back cut.


A spare bow saw is essential in case you run into difficulty and if you are right handed put a glove on your left hand. You can always rescue the frame if the blade gets jammed by releasing the tension.


I am assuming you know how to fell a tree and all necessary precautions to take. If you don't know or are unsure, please do not attempt the task.


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